Epic Pools

05/16/2013

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Pool Cleaners in Gilbert, AZ

04/21/2013

What is an acid wash vs. a chlorine bath ?

Acid Wash - for the treatment of algae buildup and heavy staining - abrasive to the plaster

An acid wash is, put simply, purposeful stripping of a tiny layer of plaster, exposing fresh plaster beneath. Therefore, it is ill-advised to make it an annual custom, which will accelerate the need for re-plastering. Most plaster coats (sometimes called whitecoat or marcite) are in excess of 1/2", so a few careful acid washes should not hurt.

You may also decide on an acid wash not because of swamp conditions, but just to bring out a brighter, whiter finish. Mineral stains and/or deposits, chlorine stains, even dirt stains...an acid wash is always a dramatic aesthetic improvement.

If your pool has had years of algae blooms, and if your pool seems to grow algae overnight or just bloom very easily....changing the water and acid washing the surfaces algae sticks to can give you an algae free summer.

Acid is a dangerous substance. Pool company personnel are specially trained in its application and wear protective clothing and breathing apparatus during the acid wash.

Chlorine Bath - for the treatment of algae buildup - non abrasive to the plaster

Swimming pool algae is a problem that pool owners occasionally need to deal with. If the algae is not responding to these special algae removal chemicals then we recommend that you get your swimming pool drained and allow us to remove the algae manually with directly applied chlorine.

This process is referred to as a chlorine bath. Pools occasionally grow algae, especially if the swimming pool chemical was not at the proper level or if the swimming pool equipment is not working properly.

A chlorine bath is completed using a similar process to an acid wash. Your swimming pool and spa (if you have one) is completely drained to allow the pool professional better access to apply these potent chemicals (Never mix swimming pool acid directly with chlorine!). With a chlorine bath we then will apply a chlorine mixture to your entire pool. We will make sure that the areas of your pool showing algae will get an especially strong scrubbing in addition to the introduction of the liquid chlorine.

This process is finished off my spraying down your pool, pool tile, spa and steps with clean water and removing all the chlorine and water with our pumps. This leaves you with a clean, algae free swimming pool which you can then refill.

04/21/2013

04/09/2013

So important!

A popular method for teaching infant swimming is what I like to call the “roll and float” method. It is a survival swimming technique popularized by Infant Swim Resource that teaches ba...

04/09/2013

Anyone with children... Please watch this amazing method to water safety

www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQoINArwW28

11 month old baby floats in a pool alongside instructor Theresa Scala from Vail Swim School in Avon Colorado.

04/09/2013

Now that swimming season is approaching.....

03/24/2013

What are the benefits of draining my pool?

Sometimes customers have asked us “If a pool is not green and doesn’t need to be acid washed or repaired… then why drain it?”

It is often beneficial to change part or all of the water in a swimming pool after 3-5 years. The benefits could be summarized as an improvement in water “health”. The water in a pool gets a slow buildup of a number of materials over time with regular maintenance including Cyanuric Acid (CYA) or Stabilizer and Calcium. The rest are generally summarized as Total Dissolved Solids or “TDS”.

TDS

Since an outdoor pool is an open system there are always pollen, dust, dirt and debris (and people) getting into the water. While the large pieces of debris are typically cleaned out, and smaller pieces are often oxidized or broken down by Chlorine and filtered out, there are still minerals and other additives too tiny for a pool filter to remove. This remaining material is referred to as “TDS” (Total Dissolved Solids).

When filling an empty pool we have generally found that TDS can be anywhere from 50 to 300ppm (parts per million) right out of the tap. After adding water from the tap, we then add 200-300ppm of calcium and at least 3000ppm of salt if a pool has a salt cell for chlorine generation. So fresh pool water will typically have a TDS of 250-600ppm right away if it is a regular Chlorine pool or 3250-3650ppm if it is Saltwater pool after adding 3000ppm of salt.

Summer temperatures can reach 115 degrees or more here in Arizona, sometimes for days or weeks at a time. Combined with periods of lower humidity and windy conditions the evaporation rate in a swimming pool can speed up greatly. When water evaporates, only the H2O dissipates and the TDS will remain in the water. The pool water is replenished with fresh water supply typically through either a hose or the automatic water fill. Since the water coming into the pool has a TDS factor of 50-300 it causes a rise in TDS over time.

In addition to the TDS from tap water, everything that gets in a pool has a TDS factor (or ads to the TDS). So the weather and usage will create higher and higher TDS levels over time.

When the TDS level of pool water rises to 1500-2000ppm or more BEYOND THE AMOUNT ACCOUNTED FOR AS SALT a pool owner will start to have subtle problems that begin to show up over time. These can include calcium deposits on pool at water line, discoloration of plaster, brown manganese or copper stains, a salty (or saltier) taste to water, and a harshness to the water that causes irritation to skin and eyes etc. If not addressed, as the TDS rises higher and higher, these problems will build to a point where the pool surfaces will begin to deteriorate. Note: Remember to subtract out the salt level from the TDS number for saltwater pools so the salt is not included in your TDS count.

Sometimes if the TDS level contains minerals they can precipitate as stains very suddenly if a pool is shocked or super chlorinated. This is because super chlorination raises the pH very quickly. When the pH rises the water can go out of balance temporarily and be unable to hold the metals in solution.

10/14/2012

12 commom pool mistakes

1. not checking water chemistry often enough
2. allowing ph to get too high
3.not keeping alkalinity within range
4. not checking tds on a regular basis
5.not cleaning cells in salt water systems enough
6. backwashing de/sand filters too often
7. not cleaning skimmer basket often enough
8. adding chemicals at the wrong time

9. not brushing the walls often enough
10. not being aware and addressing cracks in cool decking
11. not running the pump long enough
12. not replacing broken or missing drains or suction sources

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(source.. about.com)

09/05/2012

Leaking filter?


Sand filter tanks rarely leak themselves, however leaks often occur in and around the multiport interface. A common complaint is that water is leaking out of the backwash port of the multiport (six position) valve. Slight adjustments of the handle may temporarily solve this problem. A more permanent repair may necessitate replacement of the spider gasket inside of the multiport. You may also have leakage up around the middle of the handle on the valve, which external adjustments rarely fix. This usually requires replacement of a Teflon washer and sometimes the spring as well.



You may have a push-pull valve, or slide valve as it is sometimes called, instead of a multiport valve. Leaks can occur through the top of the index plate, or out of the backwash line. This is a easy inspection to determine what o-rings need to be replaced. Leaks can also occur at the bulkhead unions where the valve attaches to the side of the filter, or around the threads on a top-mounted multiport. The drain plug can leak if not secured tightly or properly sealed.

09/05/2012

Sand in the pool?


Bad news. If it hasn't blown in, or been carried in on the feet of swimmers, it's likely coming from the filter. A broken lateral or standpipe may be the cause. You'll need to empty the tank, locate and make the repair, refill with fresh sand and test.

09/05/2012

Here is some Q&A......

Why is DE leaking into the pool?

There are only a handful of reasons DE is leaking into the pool. They vary depending on which DE filter you have.
(a) Vertical Grid:
(1) Too much DE was added.
(2) Tear in the fabric of the Grid
(3) Crack in the top manifold
(4) Bad o-ring on the standpipe (the pipe the DE cluster sits on)
(b) Perflex “Bump” Filter.
(1) Too much DE
(2)Tear in the fabric of the fingers
(3) Bad diaphragm gasket
(4) Cracked tube sheet(s)
(5) Loose or missing tube sheet bolts
(6)Bad o-rings on the bump shaft

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Why does my filter run at a high filter pressure and has reduced water flow to the pool?

A dirty filter maybe the problem. When the filter pressure rises 8-10 PSI over the clean starting pressure, it is time to backwash or clean the filter
If there is algae in the pool, it maybe clogging the filter, keeping the pressure high. The filter cannot kill algae. Contact your Authorized Hayward Dealer for proper chemical applications.
If the filter pressure continues to run high with reduced water flow to the pool, the pump may be moving more water than the filter is designed to handle. Check the flow ratings of both the pump and filter to ensure they are sized correctly.
You may have a blocked or plugged return line.