13/05/2023
We've seen a few folks who are cutting their trips short by attempting to preacclimatize at home in a hypoxic tent. These tents can simulate thin air, but not the low pressure environment that just may be a crucial factor for acclimatization. The marketing pitch goes something like this: stay home, stay at work, just sleep in a hypoxia tent at night, fly right in to base camp and start your climb, skipping that 2 week acclimatization walk.
NOT SO FAST! The Wilderness Medical Society altitude guidelines, written by a panel of experts that scour the literature, have this to say: Although the systems are marketed to be of benefit and anecdotal reports suggest they are widely used by climbers and other athletes competing at high altitude, there are no data indicating increased likelihood of summit success or improved physical performance. Any benefit that may accrue from these systems is more likely with long hypoxic exposures (>8 h per day) for at least several weeks before planned high altitude travel. In addition to the cost of the systems and power needed to run them, individuals face the risk of poor sleep, which over a long period of time could have deleterious effects on performance during an expedition. (Paraphrasing, for more information, visit this free download for the full discussion: https://www.wemjournal.org/article/S1080-6032(19)30090-0/fulltext
So do they work? There are many variables that could play into their success or failure. One is an incomplete understanding about the role of pressure in the acclimatization equation, another is that different tents may have different standards/construction, another is the protocol for use (eg what role do individual genetics play? how long should they be used in advance? how many breaks can a person take?) The bottom line is that much more research needs to be done if these devices are to be relied upon. In the meantime, the safest approach is the old fashioned one: time and gradual ascent.