Support The Arches For Future Leith Generations

27/11/2021

If you would like to see how the railway arches link together huge parts of Leith as part of the former rail network, its worth watching this YouTube aerial flypast of the Caledonian rail track - Leith's New Lines.

A Google Earth flyby of a former railway line in Leith, Edinburgh.

26/11/2021

5 Reasons to Support The Arches

Edinburgh Council is considering including the railway arches (along with the art deco bingo hall and former cinema) in Manderston Street and Jane Street in the Leith Walk Conservation area. Here are some reasons why we think they should do this.

1. The Arches are part of Leith’s architectural heritage reflecting its railway, manufacturing and service traditions.

2. Including the Arches in the conservation area will limit development efforts to those that treat the Arches sensitively

3. The Arches and former cinema are able to provide a range of commercial and service opportunities

4. The Arches will continue to develop into the future to meet the needs of future generations

5. The Arches reflect the dynamic and mixed environment that has made Leith a great place to live for the last 100 years and can for the next 100.

Take the short Edinburgh Council Survey. This very simply asks if you agree that the conservation area should be extended. It will take no more than a couple of minutes. Click the following link
https://consultationhub.edinburgh.gov.uk/sfc/proposed-extension-to-the-leith-conservation-area/consultation/intro/
If you want more information there is plenty on the Support The Arches page including a link to the full consultation.

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26/11/2021

Here's why you should support the inclusion of the Arches in the Conservation Area

This area is part of the former Caledonian railway - Leith New Line. The arches constructed of Red Sandstone, were part of the goods depot and housed independent businesses and engineering works. These units are still operational mainly for independent garages and mechanical engineering businesses. The railway line bridged Leith Walk (which is within the Leith Conservation area) running across the arches and over the street, the bridge was removed in 1980, However the former railway line above the Jane Street arches has now become a green space, and could possibly form part of a new green highway for pedestrians and cyclists.

On Manderston Street, the site also houses a former Art Deco Cinema ‘Capitol Cinema’ which is currently a working Bingo hall. Whilst aspects of the building have been covered up the interior retains much of it’s detailing. It is also the only former cinema in the UK with a railway running above it. (see appendix 2)

Manderston Street in the early 19th century was originally home to a grain store and a mill and partially retains its setts.

These streets are of significant interest as a surviving relic of Edinburgh’s industrial past.

These two streets are historically significant in terms of their character. The train and tram systems connecting the city to the docks were an important part of Edinburgh’s wealth creation. These streets were part of the industrial, working past of Leith. The arches are still operating today housing independent businesses that are in keeping with the original occupants. The Cinema is now a bingo hall providing a social hub and source of entertainment for the local people of Leith.

The arches are also part of living social history as memories of these are shared on local history sites such as EdinPhoto. As well as highlighting the importance of the cinema, (which is also supported by the Scottish Cinema Association) other stories from this area highlight the presence of Italian Ice cream cafe’s and a wholesaler ‘sammy’s’ which is relevant to the history of Scots Italians and their influence on food history within Edinburgh and Scotland.

This particular site has a strong community connection. A recent proposal to demolish the red sandstone Horace Gildard White building at 106 – 154 Leith Walk, which is part of the same Caledonian railway development as the arches, met with strong opposition from the Save Leith Walk Campaign. This community feeling highlights the need to retain the industrial past of Leith and to maintain the entrepreneurial character of these streets and structures as a home of local businesses and community activity and a reminder of Leith's heritage.

The railway arches which are part of the former Caledonian Line. These are constructed from Red sandstone and retain their original use as workshops and business units. The importance of the railways and the Caledonian line is already highlighted within the Leith conservation area with listed buildings on Duke Street and Constitution Street. The arches add to this story and make the history more apparent as they retain their working and industrial meaning.

Manderston and Jane Street adjoin Leith Walk and currently sit just outside the conservation area. They are not part of a planned townscape but are examples of railway history within the area.

The use of Red Sandstone as a material is limited within Edinburgh and was only facilitated by the introduction of the railways (Caledonia railway built all its buildings with red sandstone). The Arches therefore reflect other railway related buildings within Leith such as those upon Duke Street and Constitution Street.

The former Capitol Cinema is accessed through the railway arches and this is a unique feature. The site was previously a mill before the railway arrived and it reflects a long heritage of reuse of existing structures in the locality.

The red sandstone buildings are very specific to the Caledonian railway and the industrial period. These streets add to the understanding of Leith as an area of industry which connected ports to the centre of Edinburgh via railway and trams. It is also an example of working life within the city. Often the grand and ornate buildings are valued more than the functional, however the influence of railways and small business is an important part of how Edinburgh developed.

25/11/2021

Railways and Industrial Development at the N end of Leith Walk

As new modern docks were constructed to the east of the former Leith Docks at the beginning of the 20th century, in 1903, the Caledonian Railway, which already had a branch lines leading from Princes Street to Granton and the Old Docks, opened a new double tracked line (Leith New Lines) to the new docks from Newhaven through Bonnington, Leith Walk, Restalrig to Seafield.

It was originally intended to provide both a freight and passenger service and passenger platforms were constructed at Newhaven, Ferry Road and Leith Walk (Manderston Street). In the event it was considered that the passenger service would be unable to compete with the trams and the lines were only ever used for freight.

A new goods station was constructed at Stead’s Place on the Caledonian branch line to Seafield with the new embankment carrying the main lines up to the bridge across Leith Walk.

The new line continued along Manderston Street with the platforms for the abortive passenger station on the south side of the street as it runs into Leith Walk. A tramway depot was located to the south of the Corn Mills and Iron Foundry. Leith Central Station was the North British Railway passenger terminus and had already been constructed at the Foot of the Walk.

By this time the character of Leith Walk and the hinterland between Manderston Street and Smith’s Place, was of a largely industrial/commercial nature, in contrast to the more residential and tenemental nature of the Walk to the north and south.

The general evolution of the largely residential frontage to Leith Walk was stalled between Jane Street and Leith Walk as the direct result of the intrusion of the Caledonian branch line and Goods Yard at this location.

The OS Map published around 1931 shows little significant physical change within the local area over the early part of the 20th century. The goods yard continued to service the myriad of businesses in the area, with the swathe of land to the immediate south of the railway line (either side of Leith Walk) remaining semi-industrial in nature.

The Caledonian Railway was amalgamated into the London Midland and Scottish Railway (LMSR) in 1922, and subsequently nationalised in 1948. By way of example of the continuing importance of the railways in the area, the building at 106 - 154 Leith Walk was constructed for LMSR around 1933 as a commercial development with shop/retail units at street level and business accommodation over. The tramway depot was constructed on the opposite side of the Walk around 1938.

After the Second World War and nationalisation of the railways, the goods station on Leith Walk fell into gradual decline. The line was eventually closed and the tracks dismantled between 1966 and 1968 with the Leith Walk bridge dismantled in 1980.

The tramway depot became a bus depot during the 1950s with the adjacent engineering works expanding into the land previously occupied by the stores and warehouses to the south of the railway line.

The importance of the railways to the life and development of this area can be seen in the two maps from 1906 and the late 1940’s respectively.

25/11/2021

Effect of the Railway on Industry Location

Around 1890 Caledonian Railways started to buy the properties along and behind Stead's Place, and along Manderston St (which was believed to be housing with ground floor businesses). The plan was to build a line, and station to rival existing railways at the foot of Leith Walk. To minimise the demolition of property, the line was elevated and built on arches with a bridge over Leith Walk (dismantled c.1980). However due to difficulties in land acquisition at Stead’s Place, this site was not fully developed until 1934, with the long 2 storey Horace Gildard White building at 106-154 Leith Walk built around the same time housing shops and offices. By that time, a station was no longer viable due to the fact that the tram system had become the main commuter system in Edinburgh.

Of considerable significance is that the arches were built of red Permian sandstone (as was Gildard White’s building) so demonstrating the direct connection between both sites. Red sandstone was not available in the Edinburgh area and was all transported by the railway company from the same West Scotland quarry in Dumfriesshire. This Red Sandstone was the iconic trademark of Caledonian Railways and can still be seen in the Caledonian Hotel (Waldorf Astoria) at the west end of Prince’s Street which opened in c.1902.

The arches were previously joined by a bridge which was demolished in 1980. The current place brief considers the possibility of incorporating a pedestrian/cycle route to form a green highway.

25/11/2021

Gibson’s Aeroplanes

A notable and historically significant manufacturer was Gibson’s Aeroplanes who were originally an engineering company on Stead’s Place frontage on Leith Walk, producing engineering parts. Initially at 109 Leith Walk, (occupying the site of the Salvation Army shop today) they moved into the first railway arch on 10 Manderston Street.
Gibson’s became the first aeroplane manufacturer in Scotland in 1909 with John Gibson describing himself as an aeroplane designer and builder. He built an initial biplane, followed by two further improved versions. The second had a production run of 10 and the third version had twin propellers. His advert from c1911 offers a complete biplane for £450 pounds – that’s about £50,000 in today’s money. They were exhibited in Brussels and Berlin prior to the Ist World War.

25/11/2021

Mass Entertainment Complexes e.g Capitol Cinema

The Bingo Hall at 24 Manderston Street in the heart of the Arches is an original mill from 1800's, converted to house an Art Deco cinema. One of the most unusual features is the entrance through one of the railway arches. This ably demonstrates the importance of the railways coming into and through the area and how developers and architects at the time sought to reimagine the existing buildings for new demands rather than simple demolition or new build.

Built in 1929 and designed by the architects Johnston and Ross to house nearly 2500 Leithers, it was the largest cinema in Edinburgh at the time. Such was the customer demand, the Playhouse opened 9 months later and usurped that position.

The former Capitol Cinema is still a large building with much of the original still readily visible. The currently plain exterior hides a wealth of period detailing inside the building, which was built with an orchestra pit, organ room, and detailed windows/panelling to the screen sides. It is still in use today as a bingo hall providing a positive social amenity. The building is in remarkably good repair, being based on a solid original construction and having been well maintained.

From available plans, it is obvious this building is of considerable merit. There have been renovations over the years, which have obscured the original features and fine detailing behind partition walls. It is believed that the majority of these should be uncovered and saved for future generations as part of any future plans for the building.
In addition to its architectural interest, the former Capitol Cinema is still a piece of living history, with stories from the 1950s shared on local history sites such as Edinphoto and Edinburgh Collected

It is also listed within the Scottish Cinema Association records who also support this application to add the site to the conservation area.

Furthermore it is at present a working bingo hall so it maintains a purpose of providing entertainment and facilitating social gatherings in the area.

25/11/2021

In April 2020, an enquiry was submitted requesting that consideration be given to an extension of the Leith Conservation Area to include areas to the east and west of Leith Walk, on Manderston Street and Jane Street. It was considered that this would assist in securing the long-term future of Stead's Place and protect the railway heritage of Leith.

The buildings within this extended area comprise the railway arches associated with the former Leith Walk West Goods Yard and the abutment of the former railway bridge over Leith Walk.

An appraisal of the area indicates that there is potential merit in extending the Conservation Area.

The proposal is the subject of a consultation, prior to being considered by the Planning Committee. The consultation started on 25 October and runs for eight weeks. If the proposed extension is approved by the Planning Committee, it will be designated as part of the Leith Conservation Area.

The consultation includes an appraisal of the area, details of the implications of conservation area status, a map of the proposed extension area and a short questionnaire. The consultation can be seen here:

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