22/03/2026
If not Bahag, what do the Monuvu actually wear?
Well, if you actually read E. Arsenio Manuel (you know, the source of Bienvenido Lumbera's libretto for Tales from the Manuvu), he took pictures
This is one of them, from his 1975 book 'Tuwaang Attends a Wedding'
At center is one of Manuel's major sources, the celebrated Datu Duyan Suhat. He is flanked by his two wives, Aklin and her sister Udna. The photo was taken in Lumut, in what is today Arakan but what was then Kidapawan, sometime in 1956
Not much has changed in their attire
All three are wearing the Umpak, long sleeved vests that are usually embroidered in plaids and star-like shapes using sequins.
Datu Duyan is wearing a Tongkuu, the headress of tie-dyed cloth adorned with tassels called Pohungpung which serves as regalia for a datu
He is also wearing a Sow-aa, short pants usually knee or slightly above knee length. The picture is unclear but the Sow-aa is traditionally made of Inavoo (cloth usually made of abaca), made in the rare and challenging style called Oruwa Tolliyan (double heddle weave). They are also, as seems to be the case with Datu Duyan's Sow-aa, usually embroidered
The women, on the other hand, wear the Detdet, a skirt traditionally made of Inavoo. Again since the picture is not clear it is not certain if their skirts are made of abaca, as cotton and silk cloth traded from the Moros and the Settlers is also often used. Udna seems to be wearing a Detdet in the pattern called Kinatkat, a stripped pattern common in Inavoo, while Aklin's Detdet looks like they have been tie-dyed (Tutup)
The Monuvu share many clothing traditions with neighbouring cultures, but they have their own presence in the long and vibrant history of Mindanao fashion
No need for bahag and feathers