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The ultimate foodie guide to CopenhagenOver the past couple of decades, Copenhagen has transformed from gastronomic back...
16/10/2023

The ultimate foodie guide to Copenhagen

Over the past couple of decades, Copenhagen has transformed from gastronomic backwater to undisputed gourmet hotspot, with a dynamic, diverse and democratic food scene. At the fine-dining end of the culinary spectrum, a Copenhagen restaurant (Geranium) holds top spot in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List, and the team from another (Søllerod Krø) took Denmark to victory at this year’s Bocuse d’Or awards. Meanwhile, it’s become increasingly easy to eat out well for less, thanks to an abundance of gourmet burger bars, great pizzerias, artisan bakeries and assorted street food stalls. More international, too, as a new wave of Asian, Latin American and Mediterranean restaurants shake things up on the flavour front.

The traditional favourites are still there, of course, often with a modern makeover. Make time for a lunch of smørrebrød (the famous open sandwiches); try a classic hot dog (the original Danish street food); and get your fingers sticky with delicious pastries, layer cakes and flødeboller (chocolate-covered marshmallow buns). And don’t forget to stock up on foodie souvenirs: goodies worth bringing back include small batch cheeses, gourmet liquorice, handmade chocolates and craft gins and liqueurs.

A digital detox on the world’s first ‘phone-free’ tourist islandWe walked along the narrow wooden jetty towards the fore...
13/10/2023

A digital detox on the world’s first ‘phone-free’ tourist island

We walked along the narrow wooden jetty towards the forest in deliberate silence. The sky was pastel grey, but the day felt mild. A fresh breeze skimmed off the Baltic, brushing the tops of the pine trees. Listening mindfully, I realised how incredibly satisfying I found the sound of the dry spindly needles and chunky cones crunching underfoot.

“I like starting nature hikes quietly, to help us become instantly connected with our surroundings,” said my local nature guide, Simo Peri, tying up his shoulder-length blond hair as we walked. On his back, a pack containing a surprising number of supplies for our half-day adventure, as I would realise later.

“It’s so easy to just start chatting or taking pictures that we don’t notice what’s going on around us,” he explained. “Seals also have incredible hearing and I’m hoping we’ll spot some.”

Explore the canalsThe classic excursion for seeing the waterways is to go on a canal boat tour – again, booking in advan...
13/10/2023

Explore the canals
The classic excursion for seeing the waterways is to go on a canal boat tour – again, booking in advance will help preserve your sanity – but if you prefer to feel in control, opt for hiring a pedalo instead and take yourself on a self-guided tour.

Amsterdam travel guide: Best things to do and where to stay for a 2023 city breakYou’ll know when you’ve arrived in Amst...
13/10/2023

Amsterdam travel guide: Best things to do and where to stay for a 2023 city break

You’ll know when you’ve arrived in Amsterdam. The constant ring-ring of bicycle bells, the wonderfully oddball Dutch humour, its mighty museums filled with eclectic treasures, cute-as-a-button canals and the occasional waft of legal ma*****na single it out as a special destination within Europe.

It's a brilliantly walkable city, delightful when just strolling past the gabled buildings – as though something out of a Wes Anderson film – but also heavy with green spaces. Plump for barbecues in Rembrandtpark and open-air theatre within Vondelpark. Eating spots creatively span traditional to super-modern, whether you're after snacks or fine dining, and there's no shortage of places for drinks, from cocktails to local beers.

Amsterdam is one of Europe's most popular city break destinations, and a little extra planning goes a long way – so here’s our guide to getting the most out of a visit.

Rock climbing in the Orkney IslandsOrkney’s famous seastack, the Old Man of Hoy, has become a challenging bucket-list cl...
13/10/2023

Rock climbing in the Orkney Islands

Orkney’s famous seastack, the Old Man of Hoy, has become a challenging bucket-list climb for most adventure climbers. Think panoramic views of crashing waves, rugged cliffs and grass banks populated by seabirds while ascending the intimidating landmark. It takes four to six pitches (ropes between two anchor points) to reach the top and two 60m ropes to abseil the almost 140m descent.

Peak Climbing School offers an ‘Old Man of Hoy’ three-day climbing course in the Orkney Islands for £695pp, including a day of training on a nearby sea cliff. The UK’s largest sea stack at 137m uses five pitches to reach the top, with breathtaking summit views and two days assigned to choose the optimum climbing conditions for the iconic rock formation. Climbing equipment and guiding costs are included in the price, but climbers will have to arrange accommodation, transport and meals separately.

Why you should swap Lake Como for North MacedoniaGlasses clink and cutlery scrapes the plates at a pavement café by the ...
12/10/2023

Why you should swap Lake Como for North Macedonia

Glasses clink and cutlery scrapes the plates at a pavement café by the side of the lake. People drink Aperol and espresso and take bites of pizza, their heads turned towards the peacock-green water and the villa-dappled hills that frame it. The scene wouldn’t be out of place in Lake Como – but I’m 1,300 miles away from northern Italy, in a pocket of southwest North Macedonia called Ohrid (pronounced och-rid).

Slowly inching onto the radar of UK travellers thanks to a selection of recently introduced direct TUI flights from Manchester and Gatwick, the town of Ohrid and its namesake lake have vital statistics that actually outshine their famed Italian counterparts.

At more than 138 square miles, Lake Ohrid is more than twice as large as Como, a fact that’s best appreciated on a boat trip around the former’s shoreline. Karst cliffs, coloured in pewter and newborn pink, run on for miles, giving way to the uninterrupted greenery of the Galicia National Park, which is so densely packed in places it resembles broccoli florets.

Indian art attack: Why the world’s best street artists are flocking to DelhiI’ve always had a soft spot for Delhi’s pain...
12/10/2023

Indian art attack: Why the world’s best street artists are flocking to Delhi

I’ve always had a soft spot for Delhi’s painted public service messages. Whether they relate to the importance of handwashing or safe s*x, they typically take the form of elaborate artworks painted onto walls by professional sign painters. Similarly, Delhi’s street art scene retains closer ties to government institutions than would ever happen elsewhere, but there’s a silver lining to this approach: namely, the way in which it’s given artists the chance to showcase their talent.

Take Tihar Jail, one of India’s largest prisons. St+art, the Delhi-based not-for-profit street art organisation, joined forces with prison authorities to daub lines from a poem onto its boundary walls, creating India’s longest mural – a 968-metre-long artwork referencing inmates’ feelings of isolation. Several of the street artists involved ran workshops for inmates, many of whom subsequently created their own murals on interior walls.

And then there’s India’s tallest mural – a 45-metre-high image of Mahatma Gandhi which covers one side of New Delhi’s Police Headquarters. Another example of an artwork born from a collaboration between street artists (in this case ones connected to St+art) and a government institution, it was painted by German street artist Hendrick ECB and Indian street artist Anpu Varkey in 2014, as part of the St+art Delhi Street Art Festival. It was unveiled on Martyr’s Day 2022 (the day is recognised nationally on 30 January each year, to mark the assassination of Gandhi) by the lieutenant governor of New Delhi.

The roots of education are bitter, but the fruit is sweet. Aristotle
15/09/2022

The roots of education are bitter, but the fruit is sweet. Aristotle

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