02/07/2026
๐ฆ๐ต๐ผ๐๐น๐ฑ ๐๐ต๐ฒ ๐๐ฒ๐ป๐๐ฟ๐ฎ๐น ๐๐ฎ๐ฟ๐ฟ๐ฎ๐ป๐ ๐๐๐ฎ๐ ๐ฏ๐ผ๐น๐-๐ณ๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฒ - ๐ณ๐ผ๐ฟ๐ฒ๐๐ฒ๐ฟ?
In the latest New Zealand Alpine Journal, David Vass makes the case that the heart of the Darrans is the last real adventure-climbing ground in the country, and that bolting it would quietly turn it into "just another rock-climbing area, just with tougher access than normal."
It's a genuine question: Is protecting a deliberately bolt-free zone something the NZ climbing community wants? Or is that romanticising exclusion and gatekeeping some of our best rock?
David wants a real debate - and we want it in one place, not across comment threads. Read the full piece and have your say directly on the article by clicking below.
๐ธRichard Thomson regretting the lack of bolts, Pitch 6, Hornley Arete. Photo: David Vass
This article appears in the 2026 autumn issue of New Zealand Alpine Journal. We're reproducing it here because the intention of the author was for a broad debate on the issue of the appropriateness of bolts in the central Darran Mountains, and if protecting a space for adventure climbing is somethin...